Whether you want to swap in a set of creamy keyboard switches, rescue a broken key, or finally get around to lubing your linears, the first step is always the same: get those switches out. Knowing how to remove keyboard switches cleanly — without bending pins or damaging your PCB — is one of the most useful skills in the mechanical keyboard hobby.
This guide covers both hot-swap and soldered boards, the tools that make the job easy, and what to do once the switches are out.
Hot-Swap vs. Soldered: Know Your Board First
Before you touch anything, figure out what you're working with.
Hot-swap keyboards use sockets that grip the switch pins mechanically — no soldering involved. Boards like the Keychron Q4, Keychron Q4 Pro, and most modern custom boards ship hot-swap as standard. Switches pop in and out with a simple tool.
Soldered keyboards have switches with pins fused directly to the PCB. Removing them requires heat and a bit of patience.
To tell which type you have: check the product listing, or pop off a keycap and look at the switch from the side. Hot-swap sockets sit slightly raised around the pin holes. If you see bare solder points on the underside of the PCB, it's soldered.
Tools You Need
Getting the right tools makes the difference between a clean swap and a bent pin or lifted pad.
For Any Keyboard
A keycap puller — you always need to remove keycaps before you can access the switches underneath. A wire puller distributes force evenly and is far less likely to scratch your caps than the cheap plastic ones that ship with most keyboards.
A switch puller — this is the dedicated tool for hot-swap switches. It grips the two retention clips on opposite sides of the switch housing and lets you pull straight up without damage.
The GATERON Twins Switch Puller & Keycap Puller does both jobs in one ergonomic tool — worth keeping in your kit permanently. If you want a full starter setup, the RUNJRX Keyboard Lube Kit bundles a switch puller, keycap puller, switch opener, and tweezers in one affordable package. The Quacc Keycap Remover Tool Set is another solid option that also includes brushes for cleaning out debris once the keycaps are off.
A silicone work mat — small parts go everywhere when you're not paying attention. A large silicone tool mat gives you a non-slip surface, protects your desk, and keeps screws and switches from rolling away. There's also a smaller silicone mat if you're working with a compact board.
For Soldered Keyboards (Additional Tools)
A soldering station — the Hakko FX888D is the go-to recommendation in the keyboard community. It holds temperature precisely and is built to last. Don't use a cheap unregulated iron on a PCB you care about.
A desoldering pump or solder wick — you need something to pull the liquid solder away from the pin before the switch will release. A quality pump with a silicone tip is faster; solder wick gives you more control in tight spots.
A screwdriver — many keyboards have case screws holding things together before you even get to the PCB. The Wowstick Electric Screwdriver is compact and well-suited to electronics work.
Step 1: Remove Your Keycaps
Regardless of whether your board is hot-swap or soldered, the keycaps come off first.
- Hook the wire loops of your keycap puller under opposite sides of a keycap.
- Apply even upward pressure — no rocking or twisting.
- Pull straight up until the keycap releases with a soft pop.
- Set keycaps somewhere safe, ideally grouped so you remember where each one goes.
Work row by row to stay organized. For ortholinear keyboards or smaller 40% layouts, this goes quickly since there are fewer keys to pull.
How to Remove Hot-Swap Keyboard Switches
Hot-swap removal is straightforward once you have the right tool.
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Set your keyboard on your work mat, PCB side accessible. You don't need to open the case for most boards.
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Position your switch puller. Insert the two prongs of the tool into the small notches or cutouts on opposite sides of the switch housing — typically top and bottom, or left and right depending on the switch brand.
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Squeeze the puller to engage both retention clips at the same time. You'll feel a slight click as the clips compress.
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Pull straight up with steady, even pressure. The switch should slide out cleanly. If you feel resistance, don't yank — re-check that both clips are fully disengaged before pulling.
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Set the switch aside on your mat, pins facing up to avoid bending them.
Repeat across the board. For a full-size keyboard this takes about 10–15 minutes; for a 40% ortholinear it's closer to five.
Common hot-swap mistakes:
- Only gripping one clip — the switch tilts and can damage the socket
- Pulling at an angle instead of straight up
- Forcing a switch that's still clipped in
How to Remove Soldered Keyboard Switches
Desoldering takes more time and care, but it's very achievable for beginners with the right setup.
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Open your keyboard case and remove the PCB. Keep track of all screws — your silicone mat helps here.
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Heat your soldering iron to around 300–330°C (570–625°F).
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Apply the tip to one switch pin on the underside of the PCB, holding it for 2–3 seconds until the solder flows.
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Use your desoldering pump — cock the pump before touching the PCB, place the nozzle over the molten solder, and press the release button. This pulls the solder away cleanly.
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Repeat for the second pin. Each switch has two solder points.
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Test with light pressure. Gently nudge the switch from above — if both pins are clear, it will move freely. If it's still stuck, one pin likely has residual solder. Reheat and pump again.
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Remove the switch by pushing it out from the solder side or pulling from above once both pins are free.
Common desoldering mistakes:
- Holding the iron on a pad too long — this lifts traces and damages the PCB permanently
- Not fully clearing both pins before pulling
- Skipping the flux — a small amount of flux makes solder flow better and speeds up each joint
Work methodically, one switch at a time. Rushing is how pads get lifted.
After Removal: What Comes Next
With your switches out, you have options.
If you're replacing switches, this is the perfect time to lube the new ones before installation. Krytox 205g0 is the gold standard for linear keyboard switches — a thin coat on the rails, stem legs, and spring makes a dramatic difference in feel and sound. Tactile switches generally get a lighter hand (or no lube on the bump area) to preserve the tactile feedback.
If you're testing switch types, having your board open is a great opportunity to try a few different mechanical keyboard switches side by side before committing. Linear keyboard switches like Gateron Yellows or Akko Cream Yellows are smooth and beginner-friendly. For tactile feedback, Glorious Pandas and Zealios are popular options. If you want a quiet mechanical keyboard, the Akko V3 Fairy Silent Linear and Akko V3 Penguin Silent Tactile are excellent silent keyboard switches that are pre-lubed from the factory.
Refresh Your Keycaps While You're At It
If you're already pulling everything apart, swapping your keycap set is the easiest way to give your keyboard a completely different look and feel. Here are some solid options depending on your taste and budget.
For a high-sculpted premium feel, the Drop MT3 White-on-Black and Drop + Matt3o MT3 Susuwatari sets offer deep dish legends and excellent feel — both have ortholinear kits available if you're running a grid-layout board. The Drop MT3 /dev/tty is another fan favorite with a minimal colorway and color-accent modifiers.
For budget DSA or XDA profile, the YMDK 75 Keys DSA PBT Keycaps work well on Planck, Preonic, and other ortholinear keyboards. The YMDK Carbon Laser-Etched OEM Keycaps are a solid affordable option in a classic dark colorway.
For something fully custom, FKcaps lets you design your own keyboard keycaps from scratch — choose the layout, legends, font, and colors. Our affiliate link gets you 10% off.
Quick Reference: Tools Checklist
| Task | Tool |
|---|---|
| Remove keycaps | Wire keycap puller |
| Remove hot-swap switches | Switch puller |
| Keep parts organized | Silicone work mat |
| Desolder switches | Hakko FX888D + desoldering pump |
| Case disassembly | Wowstick Electric Screwdriver |
| Lube new switches | Krytox 205g0 + lube station |
The 30 Switch Lube Station Kit is worth picking up if this is your first time going through the full process — it includes a switch opener, switch puller, and holding station that makes batch lubing far easier.
Pulling switches is one of those skills that feels intimidating the first time and trivial by the fifth. Get the right puller, work methodically, and you'll be swapping and lubing switches as fast as any veteran. The real reward is dialing in exactly the feel and sound you want from your board — which is what the mechanical keyboard hobby is all about.
